護膚“秘笈”在文末!
溫度顯示器上的數字攀升至86℃,蜂蠟、油脂與色素在加熱中逐漸融合,接著又被注入模具冷卻成型,一支由學生親手制作的口紅由此誕生......
近日,北京理工大學一門“學做化妝品”的通識課火了!
這門由化學與化工學院馮彩虹和王燁兩位老師主講的通識課《化妝品中的化學》,將科學原理與生活實踐深度融合,屢獲學生高口碑推薦。
The thermometer reads 86 C. Beeswax, oils, and pigments slowly fuse in the heat before being poured into a mold to cool and set. The result? A lipstick, crafted from scratch by a student.
This scene is part of a popular general education course at Beijing Institute of Technology: The Chemistry of Cosmetics. Taught by Feng Caihong and Wang Ye from the School of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, the class has earned high praise for blending scientific principles with hands-on practice.
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據中青網,《化妝品中的化學》共32學時,其中26學時聚焦理論,6學時落地實驗。
“實踐環節”是這門課程的一大亮點,以面膜制備為例,要求學生根據配方精準配比多種成分掌握增溶、乳化、防腐等核心工藝,通過實驗讓學生理解“配方科學”的精髓。
According to China Youth Daily, the 32-session course dedicates 26 sessions to theory and six to lab work. A highlight is the hands-on component. When making a face mask, for instance, students must precisely measure ingredients and master key techniques like solubilization, emulsification, and preservation, gaining insight into the science of formulation.
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更具價值的是課程的“生活導向”,課程引導學生運用所學知識,解讀護膚品成分表,回答“為什么有的護膚品會搓泥”“敏感肌如何選擇防曬產品”等實際問題,讓化學真正成為點亮生活的實用工具。
The course also emphasizes practical life skills. Students learn to analyze ingredient lists and tackle real-world questions like "Why is my skincare pilling?" and "How should sensitive skin choose sunscreen?" — turning chemistry into a practical tool for everyday life.
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學校介紹,馮彩虹老師深耕化妝品基礎理論教學,用生活案例拆解專業知識,讓抽象概念變得直觀易懂,王燁老師則聚焦應用教學與實驗指導,為學生詳細講解化妝品的核心技術,對學生的實驗操作給予精準點撥。
Feng focuses on foundational theories, using everyday examples to make abstract concepts relatable. Wang concentrates on applications and lab guidance, offering detailed instruction on core cosmetic technologies and precise feedback on experimental techniques.
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王燁為學生講解實驗注意事項
“化工改變世界,化學創造未來”是王燁一直以來都認同的理念,她開設這門課的初衷,正是希望讓大家通過DIY化妝品,真切感受化學的美與魅力。
在課堂上,她會用真實案例說明“成分黨”如何科學護膚;課后,她會主動解答學生的化妝品選購疑問,鼓勵學生結合自身興趣,選擇兼顧健康安全性與個性審美需求的化妝品。
Wang, who believes that "chemical engineering changes the world, and chemistry creates the future", designed the course to let students experience the beauty of chemistry through DIY cosmetics. In class, she uses real-world examples to teach how to be an informed "ingredient-conscious" consumer. After class, she helps students navigate product choices and encourages them to select cosmetics that balance safety with personal preference.
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針對學生提出的“敏感肌護膚難題”,老師還會專門補充皮膚屏障修復的科學方法;面對大家對網紅產品的疑問,會組織成分對比分析活動,引導學生理性消費。
不少學生表示,現在選購化妝品時會主動關注成分表,不再盲目追逐品牌與網紅推薦,課程的口碑在學生間廣泛傳播,“搶課秒空”成為常態。
When students raise concerns about sensitive skin, the instructors offer science-backed advice on skin barrier repair. When questions arise about trending products, they organize ingredient analyses to promote mindful consumption.
Many students say they now check ingredient lists before buying skincare, moving beyond blind trust in brands or influencers. The course is in such high demand that spots fill up almost immediately after registration opens.
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針對幾個課上常出現的熱門問題,記者也問了問老師——
①護膚品為什么會出現搓泥?
護膚品搓泥主要有三個原因:一是成分不相容;二是護膚太心急;三是皮膚狀態不好。角質層過厚或屏障受損,成分難鋪展、難吸收,更容易在表面團聚搓泥。
想避免搓泥,其實很簡單:慢一點,輕一點,少一點。每一步之間等上幾十秒,等皮膚“消化”一下再涂下一步;上臉的時候用手輕輕拍開,別來回揉搓;如果皮膚本身就敏感,就別往臉上疊太多層了。
② 敏感肌怎么護膚?怎么修復?
敏感肌很容易陷入一個惡性循環——皮膚越敏感,就越不敢護膚,或者越著急想換產品試試,結果反而讓屏障更受傷。那到底該怎么辦?
清潔做減法:晨起用32–35℃溫水沖洗即可,不用潔面;晚間選氨基酸、甜菜堿等溫和潔面,避開皂基;暫停磨砂膏、潔面儀等清潔工具。
保濕做對事:神經酰胺、角鯊烷、泛醇(VB5)都是修護好幫手。干敏肌選封閉性強的霜,油敏肌選輕薄乳,別為了清爽完全不涂。
防曬,遵循“安全優先、減少刺激”原則:優先打傘、戴帽、戴口罩等硬防曬;要用防曬就選以二氧化鈦、氧化鋅為主的物理防曬,溫和潔面就能洗干凈,不必額外卸妝。
還要避開這些雷區:遠離高濃度酒精、合成香精、刺激性防腐劑;別頻繁敷面膜,避免角質過度水合,讓屏障更脆弱。
特別提醒,一定要注意“1%分界線”——這是化妝品配方里的關鍵閾值。像防腐劑(苯氧乙醇、羥苯甲酯、山梨酸鉀等)、增稠劑(卡波姆、黃原膠等)、香精、色素這類輔助成分,添加量大多不超過1%。
選購“網紅產品”時,這個規則能幫我們避開“概念性添加”的坑:成分表中排在這些成分之后的活性物,含量基本也低于1%,很難真正起效。
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王燁老師表示,說到底,護膚這件事,沒有標準答案,也沒有捷徑可走。它更像是我們和自己的皮膚慢慢磨合、互相了解的過程。
不用迷信大牌,也不用盲目跟風。讀懂護膚背后的邏輯,找到適合自己的節奏,皮膚自然會用最好的狀態回應你。
來源:中國青年報 北京理工大學
跟著China Daily
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